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- Magnolias
Magnificent Magnolias
Late winter is the season when the deciduous magnolias are at their best.
August seems to force these gorgeous flowers to open in a rush. The breathtaking sight of the large, tulip-like blooms perching on bare branches can send passers-by rushing to the nursery to buy something similar. There are dozens of magnolia varieties, and making a choice can be a formidable task. The names are confusing so it’s usually easiest to forget nomenclature and just go for the flower you like most (remembering, of course, to check the ultimate height on the label). Most grow into small trees but, if space is tight, look for one of the shrub-sized star magnolia.
Planting
Because magnolias come from cool climates with rich, moisture-holding soil, keeping them happy through hot New Zealand summers can be a challenge. It’s important to take the opportunity to improve the soil as much as possible before planting. Choose a spot that gets at least half a day’s sun and is protected from strong winds. Start by clearing grass or ground-covering plants from an area about a metre across, then dig plenty of manure or good compost and some long-lasting fertilizer into the soil. Because magnolias hate being dry, it can also be helpful to add some water-storing crystals into the planting area. Create a planting hole that’s about twice the size of the pot and approximately the same depth. Take the plant out of the pot with care (magnolias hate root disturbance) and sit it into the planting hole. Backfill, then water well to settle everything into place. Lastly, spread a layer of organic mulch. This will keep the soil moist and stop competitive grass from growing back over the root area. Once the magnolia is well established you can plant some bulbs around the base to add extra interest in late winter and spring.
  - March Gardening
- Planting
- Plants for Dry Situations
Plants for Dry Situations
Autumn is the best time to plant to capture as much of the winter rain as possible so plants are established before summer.
Dry gardens are a challenge. The old rule of right plant, right place is especially true for dry gardens. Success is achieved by using plants that naturally grow in dry situations, and working with nature.
Planting
There are two types of dry situations, full sun and shade.  Look for plants with silver or grey leaves and succulents for dry situations in full sun. There are many popular perennials suitable for dry, shady areas. Dig in plenty of compost, lawn clippings and as much organic material you can lay your hands on. Mulch plants well in summer.
When to plant
 Autumn is the best time to plant to capture as much of the winter rain as possible so plants are established before summer.
How to plant
It is important plenty of compost, mulch and organic material is dug into the soil before planting. Dig the planting hole twice the width and depth of the root ball. Dig in compost and organic material. Add Blood & Bone or Butlers Sheep Manure Pellets to the planting hole and mix in well.
Soak the plant in a bucket of water before planting. Remove  the plant from its container, run a sharp knife down the root ball in several places to encourage new roots. Place the plant in the hole and firm soil around it. Plant to the depth of the plant's original container. Water well.
Feeding
Use a Complete Garden Fertiliser at the recommended rate in spring. Water fertiliser in well.
Mulching
 For trees and shrubs to thrive in dry conditions, mulching is very important. Mulch in late winter / early spring and again in mid summer. Mulching keeps weeds down and retains soil moisture.
Watering
Regular watering will be required to get plants established.  Install an inground irrigation system to make the job less labour intensive and guarantee success. Deep watering once a week is more effective than light watering.
What to Plant
Trees and Shrubs for dry situations
In exposed situations, trees and tall shrubs will need to be staked to help them become established.
 Acacia (Wattle), Adenandra, Albizzia (Silk Tree), Banksia, Callistemon (Bottle Brush), Ceanothus, Cistus, Erica, Eucalyptus, Grevillea, Juniper, Laurus nobilis (Bay Tree), Lavender, Leucospermum, Leucadendron, Metrosideros, Olea (Olive), Prostanthera, Pimelia, Protea, Pseudopanax, Raphiolepsis, Rosemary, Yucca
Perennials for dry situations
Perennials tend to be less tolerant of dry conditions, but given protection by larger trees and shrubs, are very rewarding.
 Achillea (Yarrow), Artemisia, Arctotis, Bergenia, Echinacea, Euphorbia, Gaura, Gazania, Helianthemum, Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker), Nepeta (Catmint), Osteospermum, Phormium (Flax), Salvia, Sedum.
Bulbs for dry situations
Summer flowering bulbs are the best to grow in dry situations.
 Amaryllis (Belladonna Lily), Allium (Ornamental Onion), Freesia, Galtonia, Hippeastrum, Ixia, Lachenalia, Nerine, Scilla, Spraxia.
Climbers for dry situations
Climbers do well in dry situations but require protection from prevailing winds. Mulch well in summer.
 Bougainvillea, Campsis, Hardenbergia, Hedera (Ivy), Lonicera (Honeysuckle), Podranea, Trachelospermum. 
Annuals for dry situations
Annuals are great to keep colour in the garden year round. They also give good ground cover.
Calendula, Celosia, Coreopsis, Echium, Eschscholtzia, Helipterum (Paper Daisy), Livingstone Daisy, Limonium (Statice), Petunia, Portulaca, Nasturtium.
Plants for dry shade
This is one of the most challenging areas of the garden as it is often underneath larger trees.
 Alchemilla mollis (Ladies Mantle), Berberadopsis (Chilean Coral Vine), Buxus, Clivia, Hedera (Ivy), Hippeastrum, Hydrangea, Griselinia, Lapergeria (Chilean Bellflower).
This list is by no means comprehensive.
If you are still confused or in dougt of what to do contact Caroline at caroline@cwlandscapes.co.nz for a consultation - Vireya Tropical Rhododendron
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